Bearded Dragons - Basic Care

Bearded Dragons - Basic careget out again! Some people use large ceramic dog
Bearded dragons can make wonderful pet lizards,bowls, which are easy to clean. You can also
with fantastic and fascinating behaviours they arepurchase resin bowls, which are also easy to clean
often sold as the perfect 'beginner' lizard. Howeverand tend to be moulded to look like rocks, enhancing
much care and thought should be put into buying onethe enclosure's look. It is again, down to personal
as a pet. As with all lizards, they are a long-termpreference. The positioning of the bowl is important.
commitment and have specialist requirements, whichIt needs to be positioned at the coolest end of the
need to be understood.vivarium, to ensure the gradient is maintained. You
Bearded dragons originate from Australia; althoughmay also want to purchase feeding bowls, in order to
many of the Bearded Dragons sold are captive bred,contain insects and other foods stuffs.
meaning they are generally healthier specimens. TheAnother essential is a hiding spot for your beardie.
lifespan of a Beardie is usually around 7 years, whichThis can be anything from pieces of cork bark and
is why careful consideration must be put into owningmopani/bogwood carefully and securely stacked, to
one! Due to their natural habitats they are terrestrialshaped hides, made from resin, wood or similar
creatures that like to occasionally climb. They arematerials. This, again, needs to be put at the coolest
generally docile creatures that show a lot ofend of the vivarium as most lizards when hiding
expression through body language, so they can beprefer to be cool and temperatures inside the hide
fascinating to watch. They are also one of the fewwill rise if put too close to the basking lamp.
lizards that will tame nicely and some can becomeAdditional decor isn't needed, but will make the
quite friendly toward their owners, however youenclosure a lot nicer for both you and your pet.
should still keep in mind that they usually prefer theirThings such as plastic plants, branches, slate and
own space.rocks can be placed to provide areas for climbing,
Housing a Beardiebasking and hiding. Be careful not to put live plants in,
Bearded dragons are endothermic, like all lizards,as they may be harmful. You should also try to buy
meaning they take their heat from their surroundings.wooden branches, as they will be free from pests.
With this in mind their enclosure needs to haveWhen placing decor keep in mind that Beardies are
adequate space and placement to allow them tocan be heavy and so items should be secure and no
regulate their temperature. The vivarium itself shouldsharp edges present.
be around 36 Inches to 42 inches long and of no lessCleaning your Beardies Enclosure
than 18 to 24 Inches widthways. The height shouldHaving a clean enclosure is very important, dirty
be adequate to place decor and allow the Beardie toconditions will lead to disease and general discomfort
climb, so a height of around 18 to 24 Inches shouldfor your pet as well as putting you at risk.
be available.It is important you spot clean. When you see
There are several types of vivarium available, from'deposits' or loose skin from shedding you should
the usual ply board and sliding glass door type to thesafely remove it and any affected bedding. If any of
all glass type. Either is sufficient, however thethe decor becomes soiled you should clean it with a
wooden types tend to keep heat in more effectivelylizard safe disinfectant and rinse with water.
and reduce stress as the wooden sides don't createFood and water bowls should be cleaned daily with
reflection like glass vivariums and create secludedlizard safe disinfectant and rinsed thoroughly.
corners for your pet to retreat to. However someYou should completely clean the vivarium at least
glass vivariums come with metal mesh on the topevery three months, completely changing the
and ventilation on the doors, allowing for better airsubstrate, cleaning the decor and vivarium with
movement than the wooden types.disinfectant and rinsing with water.
Whatever type of vivarium you choose, placement inFeeding your Beardie
your home is important and should be carefullyCareful consideration should go into your bearded
considered before buying. The vivarium should not bedragons diet, as it will largely determine the health of
placed in draughts or next to radiators, not should ityou pet. Bearded dragons will eat a mixture of
be placed in direct sunlight. All these things will changevegetables and live insects. If you are not
the temperature of the enclosure and this can leadcomfortable feeding insects, you should consider if a
to problems with your pet. It should also be placedlizard is the best choice for you as ultimately you
somewhere quiet, where there isn't a lot of 'traffic'need to think of it's health first.
or noise either from people or household appliances.If you are okay with feeding live insects, feeding
Lastly, careful consideration should be put intotime can be a fun and rewarding experience.
whether the vivarium is accessible to other pets orFirstly you need to understand how much a bearded
younger children who may be overly inquisitive! Thisdragon likes to eat. They have high metabolisms and
also brings about the last point, always make suretherefore should have food available for the majority
the vivarium is secured, either with it's own lockingof the time. This can come in the form of
system or a traditional 'viv lock'!mealworms, dried food and vegetables, with things
Heat and lightingsuch as crickets or locusts completing the diet. You
Beardies require a temperature gradient of aroundshould never leave insects such as locusts or crickets
30-35 degrees Celsius at the hottest end and 20-25in the enclosure for a long time as they will nibble
degrees Celsius at the coolest end. A basking spotyour pet, causing annoyance and pain.
reaching around 40 degrees Celsius is also needed.You also need to provide fresh water everyday.
Creating this gradient is the key to beardie successAlthough desert creatures, they need water. Some
as it governs all of their habits and workings.of this is obtained through food although they will
So how do you create the correct temperatureenjoy the very occasional misting of water.
gradient for a Bearded Dragon? Well, it partlyWhen feeding your dragon, it is best to give it no
depends on the type of vivarium you have. The mainmore food than can be consumed within 10 minutes,
tools of heating are a heat mat (regulated with awith the exception of vegetation, which can be left
thermostat) and a basking spotlight (in addition to UVin for the day. Insects should be removed after 10-15
lighting).minutes and vegetation and dry foods removed at
The general method for creating this gradient meansthe end of the day.
putting a heat mat under the substrate at one endA young bearded dragon should be fed on small
of the vivarium, it should cover around half of theamounts of small brown crickets 2-3 times a day.
vivarium floor. The heat mat works on infrared andMealworms should be excluded from their diet at this
will literally heat the substrate and therefore yourstage. This is the same for young or 'sub' adult
lizard. A thermostat is usually required to control thebeardies. When feeding crickets, they should be no
heat mats output, avoiding it from getting too hot,bigger than the size of the gap in between their
as the heat mat needs to stay on all of the time.eyes.
You should also place a thermometer at each end toYoung Beardies can also be fed on commercial foods,
check the gradients.specially formulated for young bearded dragons. This
At the same end a basking light should be mounted.should be fed in accordance to the manufacturer's
This will provide your lizard the area of concentratedinstructions.
heat it needs as well as heating the air in theAn adult Beardie can be fed larger crickets, 2-3 times
vivarium, known as 'ambient heat. How you mounta day. They may also be willing to take locusts. New
the bulb will depend on the type of vivarium youfoods can be introduced to the adult Beardie,
have. Glass vivariums presuming they have a meshincluding mealworms, which can be left in a suitable
top can simply have the bulb and lighting unit stoodbowl in the enclosure. Wax worms can also make a
on top of the vivarium. Some vivariums have specialdelicious treat for your Beardie, however they should
units that can clip onto the top. If your vivarium isbe given in moderation, both to stop selective eating
wooden you can use a standard light fitment andand weight gain!
affix the bulb to the wood, inside the enclosure.Adult bearded dragons will also love to eat
Sometimes the wooden type vivariums have thesevegetables; spring greens are a particular favourite.
prefitted. If you have this type of vivarium you needMake sure you wash any vegetables you provide,
to also purchase a light guard that can fit onto theensuring any pesticides or preservatives have been
bulb fitment ensuring your beardie doesn't climb ontoremoved.
the light, burning itself.You can also feed manufactured dry foods
The wattage of the light also needs to be carefullyformulated especially for adult beardies and always in
considered. Generally smaller enclosures require aaccordance with the manufacturers instructions.
smaller wattage, 50, 75 and 100 watts are goodShedding in Beardies
standards although larger cages may need 150w. It isAs your Bearded Dragon grows, it will shed its skin.
also important to remember glass will not insulate theDuring this time it may be less inclined to be 'active'
enclosure as well as wooden sided vivariums,and may dislike being held. It is important that you
therefore may require a higher wattage. The bestdon't pull or try to 'help' you pet shed. It is quite
thing to do is to ask your local pet store on thecapable of rubbing it off on decor items within its
specifics of your tank, going from there you canenclosure. Unlike snakes, the skin will fall off in parts,
experiment until you are satisfied. This alsoso don't be alarmed! If you think it's having trouble
emphasizes the need to set up your vivarium andshedding you can give it a light mist with some
running it for a bit to see what needs changing andlukewarm water.
so on.Problems you may encounter
Lastly, UV lighting is needed for Beardies. WithoutBeardies rarely encounter problems if kept properly,
proper lighting your beardie cannot manufacture thehowever if your beardie does become ill this will help
vitamins he needs from food. This can cause seriousyou to know what to do next!
implications for your Beardie. Usually a UV light strip,Impaction
manufactured especially for use in vivariums, is put atThis comes from the beardie eating too much or
the centre toward the top back of the vivarium,eating fine substrates or other foreign objects, such
allowing even light dispersal. The light is usuallyas sand, plastic plants, small pebbles and so on. Signs
powered by a starter unit, which allows you toinclude loss of appetite, sluggish behaviour, bloated or
power the light as well as mount it. Some vivariumsdiscoloured abdomen, hiding away and not passing
come with them already fitted and some, such asstools. It can, in early stages, be solved by firstly
glass vivariums can have special units that fit on theremoving any possible causes, reducing food and
top of the mesh.bathing for 10-15 mins in warm (not hot) water
The light itself should be around 10.00 UV level, if youeveryday to encourage the lizard to pass stools and
are unsure when buying it is best to ask! The lightthe blockage.
should be replaced around every six months toIf symptoms persist you should seek veterinary
ensure its UV output is still at optimum levels. Totreatment.
replicate the environment that a beardie is naturally inMites
you should keep both the basking lamp andCaused by unsanitary conditions, infection from
fluorescent light on for no more than 14 hours. In theexternal causes or contact with other infected
winter months this should be decreased to around 12animals or objects. It is more common on wild caught
hours. After this 'day' period you should turn off thespecimens. Signs include the beardie rubbing on items,
fluorescent light and either dim or turn off thescales looking 'lifted' and small brown, white, tan or
basking light. It is generally better to dim the baskingblack specks embedded between scales. You may
light so there is still some heat being produced in thealso see 'specks' running over the surface, particularly
basking area. You can buy a range of timers andnear the vent, eyes, mouth and joints. Usually a
dimmers for this purpose although they are notpre-prepared solution, applied as directed gets rid of
necessary as you can just turn it off manually.the mites on the animal. You should also do a
Cage decor for the Beardiecomplete clean of the cage and bedding, making sure
Beardies require only the most basic decor, substrate,to soak decor in hot water and buy new bedding.
water bowl and somewhere to hide and climb.You should also try to find the source of the problem
However you may prefer to create a moreand deal with it accordingly.
stimulating environment both for you and yourSometimes the problem can be more persistent, in
beardie!which case treatment from a vet may be required.
Substrate is the most important thing. It should beInjuries
carefully considered, there are many differentSometimes, through climbing or if kept together,
opinions on substrate types, so you should generallyfighting, your pet may sustain an injury. A little iodine
use your good sense when choosing. It is importantapplied to minor injuries can ensure no infection
to remember the age of the beardie, fine substrateshappens, although it is generally better to seek
can be swallowed easily and cause impaction in youngveterinarian advice. You should always seek a vet's
lizards. You also need to keep in mind how clean theadvice for breaks and larger injuries.
substrate will be, how easy will it be for you to spotTail/Scale rot
clean? Also, substrate should not be more than anCaused by keeping the enclosure too wet or by
inch thick, as this will stop the heat mat from workingkeeping the lizard in unsanitary conditions. Symptoms
properly.include blackening of the area, softening of the skin
Generally people use sand for older beardies, it isand general unhealthy appearance. You should clean
easy to clean and looks natural. There are severalthe Beardies enclosure and make sure it is kept dry.
types of sand, from calcium sand to fine 'repti-sand'.Because this is an infection a vet's advice should be
Which one you use is up to you and how well yoursought.
beardie responds to it.Coccidia
You can also consider shelf liner, reptile carpet orThis is a intestinal parasite, rarely contracted by
newspaper, especially for younger Beardies as itcaptive bred Beardies, however in the case of your
reduces the risk of impaction. However it doesn'tpet contracting it you will see sluggish behaviour,
look as nice and some people have disputed thediarrhoea, bloating of the abdomen and fluid loss
cleanliness of such materials, as they can be difficult(characterized by 'wrinkly' skin that sticks as wrinkles
to clean.and appears baggy) You should consult your vet if
Some people even use ceramic tiles or large slatethis occurs.
pieces, although they don't look as good they areMetabolic bone disease (MBD)
easy to clean and heat up rather well under theRare in well looked after specimens, this comes from
basking light. However it is important to keep in mindongoing poor nutrition and inefficient lighting exposure
the change to temperature it may cause. As a(lack of UV) it will cause softening of bone tissue,
general rule you should do as much research onparticularly in jaw tail and spine. It will cause bones to
substrate and try to decide what you feel is thebreak easily and slow the rate of growth. The only
best for you and your beardie.cure for this is usually prevention, which is why it is
After you have decided on substrate you need toimportant to give your pet the correct nutrition. If
now focus on other essentials, like water bowls. Theyou have acquired a specimen with MBD you should
water bowl should be big enough for your beardie toseek a vets advice.
get in but not deep enough for it to not be able to